“I was born free,
free as the eagle that flies, over the great blue sky,
a light wind touches its face, I will be free.”
(Dion Panteah, Zuni - New Mexico)
This fall/winter Etro take us on a journey to rediscover the epic of life.
The man, inspired by Pegasus, wears feathers and takes flight. Leaving behind the known world, he chooses the realm of the fantastic and the lightness of being.
The classical takes flight; the traditional attire of the male wardrobe has been reworked, and even the everyday holds perceptive surprises normally confined to the evening, to the sacredness of the ceremony. A proposal for life: soaring high and seeing the everyday as a celebration of beauty. The richness of the materials, the details and the finishings enhance the sartorial spirit and design of each single piece, carrying it into the domain of the most refined eccentricity.
The decision to open the show with eveningwear, a chromatic beat orchestrated by black, anthracite, blue, burnt sienna that fades into shades of grey with flashes of orangey reds before ending in regal emerald green, designs a totalising emotional trajectory. Like passing through the Ishtar Gate, we enter a universe of consistencies, of intarsia, of combinations and decorative detailing.
This is a dramatic collection interspersed with poetic moments by the use of precious materials also for the day and a sense of ceremony that illuminates the wardrobe and influences the bearing of the wearer. Free associations and artisan virtuosity give movement to the coat and to the jackets that can also end in a tail. We rediscover the most familiar codes rendered extraordinary by a luxurious idea: the fun of defining the outer shape of one’s figure complete with feathered wings.
THE CHARACTER: Epic. Courageous and rich.
THE LANGUAGE SPOKEN: Articulate and full of the detailing and meticulousness. Or of Alta Costura, in Spanish it suggests a more noble bearing, like that of a knight.
THE SUGGESTIONS: Rediscovering the known. The reference to Pegasus, the desire to soar, to think of the ceremony as the return of a value and a state of mind suitable for any hour of the day.
THE MATERIALS AND THE FINISHINGS: Feathers, feathers also in disciplined patchworks, and then damask, brocade, bouclé wool, smooth velvets and devorè, double jacquard, needle punch, silk, flocked fabrics and felted mohair.
THE VOLUMES: Classic and traditional.
THE COLOURS: The nocturnals in all possible lustres and opaques, rust, orange and red, peacock and emerald.
THE PRINTS: Reworked tribals made graphic by black and white, Paisley, stripes and tapestry effect.
Designer Kean Etro
How do you like the collection? Gentlemen, will you wear velvet and feathers this season? Ladies, would you like to see it on your man?
Hmm not really my cup of tea. I'm not a fan of also those feathers and coloured patterns in strange places...ReplyDelete