For Spring/Summer 2013, Veronica Etro presents her vision of 21st century Romanticism.
Rooted in a dream-like earthly paradise, the collection delves into fantasy yet imparts a sense of discipline and rigorous restraint in its simplified shapes and compact materials.
In clear rejection of computer-generated prints, Etro draws upon the nearly extinct art of hand-painted prints. The collection is entirely comprised of hand-painted pattern. Each work of art has been expressly placed and printed on the garment for which it was designed.
Inspired by the richly feminine Orientalist paintings, the leitmotif of the collection are flora and fauna conceived as a modern paisley. The hand of each artist is revealed in painterly brushstrokes that add new depth and shading to paisleys.
Birds of paradise, butterflies, flamingoes and geckos cavort within the fantasy foliage, sometimes mixed with graphic tie prints and Japanese vase prints.
The romanticism is cut by thick trims of stripes, running horizontally, vertically or asymmetrically. The liberal use of black and white void spaces frames the prints, while coral, pink, lemon, lime and blue offer pops of colour.
Fabrics like cady strech, thick silk sable, stiff cottons and drappe, underscore the constructed looks and add a sporty flair.
Quilted kimonos have been painted and then embroidered with small rows of colourful butterfly and flowers onto stiff cotton. Pared-down, clean silhouettes dilute the decorative effect of the prints. The simple shapes evoke uniforms, while constructions have an air of the East.
The Judo pant wide legged, cropped and tied at the waist, is paired with Kimono-style jackets or petal wing tops. A play with structure creates unexpected twists: dresses with one sleeve, apron-front one piece suits, half-Sari draping over pants and under a jacket, and gentle waves of rigid ruching along pants, tops and dress fronts.
The accessories, set off by silver metal and hard leather, have a hand crafted feel. Chunky mirrored heels set off leather sandals, while stiff belts are in stitched cotton. The painted florals and paisleys find their way onto folded handbags, while clutches with hard stone closures reveal surprising origami-like constructions.
Jacquelyn Jablonski after the show
The oriental and asian references and bright colours make me want to go on vacation right now. I`m loving the Kimono- & Sari-influences. What a beautiful, vibrant summer collection!
How do you like the collection and the show?